Skip to main content
Log in

From Resistance to Opportunity-Seeking: Strategic Responses to Institutional Pressures for Corporate Social Responsibility in the Nordic Fashion Industry

  • Published:
Journal of Business Ethics Aims and scope Submit manuscript

Abstract

Using survey responses from 400 fashion companies in Denmark, Norway, Sweden, Finland, and Iceland, we examine the diversity of strategic responses to institutional pressures for corporate social responsibility (CSR) within the Nordic fashion industry. We also develop and test a new model of strategic responses to institutional pressures that encompasses both resistance and opportunity-seeking behaviour. Our results suggest that it is inconsistent pressures within, rather than between, stakeholder groups that shape strategic responses to CSR pressures and that increasing pressures stimulates opportunity-seeking at the expense of compliance.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this article

Price excludes VAT (USA)
Tax calculation will be finalised during checkout.

Instant access to the full article PDF.

Institutional subscriptions

Fig. 1
Fig. 2

Similar content being viewed by others

Notes

  1. Here, CSR is broadly defined in accordance with van Marrewijk (2003) as (…) company activities – voluntary by definition – demonstrating the inclusion of social and environmental concerns in business operations and in interactions with stakeholders’ (p. 102). It is beyond the scope of this paper to discuss how this definition relates to other definitions of CSR and related concepts such as sustainable business or corporate citizenship.

  2. The response rate was calculated by \( \frac{\text{completes}}{{{\text{completes}} + \frac{\text{completes}}{{{\text{compleles}} + {\text{not}}\;{\text{qualified}}}}*({\text{refused}} + {\text{not}}\; {\text{contacted}})}} \), where ‘completes’ equals completed interviews; ‘not qualified’ denotes respondents who do not meet the screening criteria or overfill the quota; ‘refused’ are respondents who refused to participate or terminated mid-interview; and ‘not contacted’ comprises instances such as wrong or continuously engaged numbers or answering machines.

  3. Brent Spar concerns Shell’s planned disposal of an oil storage buoy in the North Sea which sparked international protests, and the Niger Delta case concerns the execution of community activists in Nigeria where Shell as a powerful actor was accused of passivity (at best) (Livesey 2001).

References

  • Accenture. (2010, November 29). A new era of sustainability: UN Global Compact-Accenture CEO Study 2010.

  • Ählström, J., & Egels-Zandén, N. (2008). The processes of defining corporate responsibility: A study of Swedish garment retailers’ responsibility. Business Strategy and the Environment, 17(4), 230–244.

    Google Scholar 

  • Alam, K., Blanch, L., & Smith, A. (2011). Stitched up: Women workers in the Bangladeshi garment sector. London: War on Want.

  • Alam, K., Klier, S., & McRae, S. (2008). Fashion Victims II: How UK clothing retailers are keeping workers in poverty. London: War on Want.

  • Albareda, L., Lozano, J. M., & Ysa, T. (2007). Public policies on corporate social responsibility: The role of governments in Europe. Journal of Business Ethics, 74(4), 391–407.

    Google Scholar 

  • Allwood, J. M., Laursen, S. E., de Rodriguez, C. M., & Bocken, N. M. P. (2006). Well dressed? Cambridge: University of Cambridge Institute for Manufacturing.

  • Amazeen, M. (2011). Gap (RED): Social responsibility campaign or window dressing? Journal of Business Ethics, 99(2), 167–182.

    Google Scholar 

  • Ansett, S. (2007). Mind the gap: A journey to sustainable supply chains. Employee Responsibilities & Rights Journal, 19(4), 295–303.

    Google Scholar 

  • Aragón-Correa, J. A. (1998). Strategic proactivity and firm approach to the natural environment. Academy of Management Journal, 41(5), 556–567.

    Google Scholar 

  • Arnold, D. G. (2003). Exploitation and the sweatshop quandary. Business Ethics Quarterly, 13(2), 243–256.

    Google Scholar 

  • Baden, D. A., Harwood, I. A., & Woodward, D. G. (2009). The effect of buyer pressure on suppliers in SMEs to demonstrate CSR practices: An added incentive or counter productive? European Management Journal, 27(6), 429–441.

    Google Scholar 

  • Bebbington, J., Higgins, C., & Frame, B. (2009). Initiating sustainable development reporting: Evidence from New Zealand. Accounting, Auditing & Accountability Journal, 22(4), 588–625.

    Google Scholar 

  • Bekefi, T., & Epstein, M. J. (2008). Transforming social and environmental risks into opportunities. Strategic Finance, 89, 42–47.

    Google Scholar 

  • Bertels, S., & Peloza, J. (2008). Running just to stand still? Managing CSR reputation in an era of ratcheting expectations. Corporate Reputation Review, 11(1), 56–72.

    Google Scholar 

  • Bhattacharyya, S. (2010). Exploring the concept of strategic corporate social responsibility for an integrated perspective. European Business Review, 22(1), 82–101.

    Google Scholar 

  • Birkin, F., Polesie, T., & Lewis, L. (2009). A new business model for sustainable development: An exploratory study using the theory of constraints in Nordic organizations. Business Strategy and the Environment, 18, 277–290.

    Google Scholar 

  • Bitzer, V., & Glasbergen, P. (2010). Partnerships for sustainable change in cotton: An Institutional analysis of African cases. Journal of Business Ethics, 93, 223–240.

    Google Scholar 

  • Blomgren, A. (2011). Does corporate social responsibility influence profit margins? A case study of executive perceptions. Corporate Social Responsibility and Environmental Management, 18(5), 263–274.

    Google Scholar 

  • Boyd, E., Spekman, R. E., Kamauff, J. W., & Werhane, P. (2007). Corporate social responsibility in global supply chains: A procedural justice perspective. Long Range Planning, 40(3), 341–356.

    Google Scholar 

  • Brønn, P. S., & Vidaver-Cohen, D. (2009). Corporate motives for social initiative: Legitimacy, sustainability, or the bottom line? Journal of Business Ethics, 87(Suppl 1), 91–109.

    Google Scholar 

  • Buchholtz, A. K., & Carroll, A. B. (2009). Business and society: Ethics and stakeholder management. Mason: South-Western Cengage Learning.

    Google Scholar 

  • Burke, L., & Logsdon, J. M. (1996). How corporate social responsibility pays off. Long Range Planning, 29(4), 495–502.

    Google Scholar 

  • Buysse, K., & Verbeke, A. (2003). Proactive environmental strategies: A stakeholder management perspective. Strategic Management Journal, 24(5), 453–470.

    Google Scholar 

  • Campbell, J. L. (2006). Institutional analysis and the paradox of corporate social responsibility. American Behavioral Scientist, 49(7), 925–938.

    Google Scholar 

  • Campbell, J. L. (2007). Why would corporations behave in socially responsible ways? An institutional theory of corporate social responsibility. Academy of Management Review, 32(3), 946–967.

    Google Scholar 

  • Carroll, A. B. (1979). A three-dimensional model of corporate performance. Academy of Management Review, 4(4), 497–505.

    Google Scholar 

  • Castka, P., Balzarova, M. A., Bamber, C. J., & Sharp, J. M. (2004). How can SMEs effectively implement the CSR agenda? A UK case study perspective. Corporate Social Responsibility and Environmental Management, 11, 140–149.

    Google Scholar 

  • Chan, R. Y. K. (2010). Corporate environmentalism pursuit by foreign firms competing in China. Journal of World Business, 45(1), 80–92.

    Google Scholar 

  • Chapman, A. (2010). Mistra future fashion—Review of life cycle assessment. Stockholm: MISTRA—The Foundation for Strategic Environmental Research.

  • Chua, F., & Rahman, A. (2011). Institutional pressures and ethical reckoning by business corporations. Journal of Business Ethics, 98, 307–329.

    Google Scholar 

  • Clarkson, M. E. (1995). A stakeholder framework for analyzing and evaluating corporate social performance. Academy of Management Review, 20(1), 92–117.

    Google Scholar 

  • Clemens, B., Bamford, C., & Douglas, T. (2008). Choosing strategic responses to address emerging environmental regulations: Size, perceived influence and uncertainty. Business Strategy and Environment, 17(8), 493–511.

    Google Scholar 

  • Clemens, B., & Douglas, T. (2005). Understanding strategic responses to institutional pressures. Journal of Business Research, 58(9), 1205–1213.

    Google Scholar 

  • Connor, T., & Dent, K. (2006). Offside! Labour rights and sportswear production in Asia. Oxford: Oxfam International.

    Google Scholar 

  • Turcotte, B., De Bellefeuille, S., & den Hond, F. (2007). Gildan Inc. Journal of Corporate Citizenship Autumn, 2007(27), 23–36.

    Google Scholar 

  • Co-operative Bank. (2010) Ethical Consumerism Report 2010. Retrieved October 5, 2012, from http://www.goodwithmoney.co.uk/ethicalconsumerismreport.

  • Cowe, R., & Williams, S. (2000). Who are the ethical consumers?. Manchester: The Co-operative Bank.

    Google Scholar 

  • Criado-Jiménez, I., Fernández-Chulián, M., Larrinage-González, C., & Husillos-Carqués, F. (2008). Compliance with mandatory environmental reporting in financial statements: The case of Spain (2001–2003). Journal of Business Ethics, 79(3), 245–262.

    Google Scholar 

  • Darnall, N., Henriques, I., & Sadorsky, P. (2010). Adopting proactive environmental strategy: The influence of stakeholders and firm size. Journal of Management Studies, 47(6), 1072–1094.

    Google Scholar 

  • DEFRA. (2010). Sustainable clothing action plan (Update Feb 2010). London: Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs.

  • Delmas, M. A., & Toffel, M. W. (2008). Organizational responses to environmental demands: Opening the Black Box. Strategic Management Journal, 29(10), 1027–1055.

    Google Scholar 

  • Deloitte. (2011). CSR foranking i danske virksomheder. Deloitte, Copenhagen. http://www.deloitte.com/assets/Dcom-Denmark/Local%20Assets/Documents/Udgivelser/Publikationer/CSR_klima_og_cleantech/csr_i_danske_virk_042011.pdf.

  • DeTienne, K. B., & Lewis, L. W. (2005). The pragmatic and ethical barriers to corporate social responsibility disclosure: The Nike case. Journal of Business Ethics, 60(4), 359–376.

    Google Scholar 

  • DiMaggio, P. J., & Powell, W. W. (1983). The iron cage revisited: institutional isomorphism and collective rationality in organizational fields. American Sociological Review, 48(2), 147–160.

    Google Scholar 

  • Doh, J. P., & Guay, T. R. (2006). Corporate social responsibility public policy, and NGO activism in Europe and the United States: An institutional-stakeholder perspective. Journal of Management Studies, 43(1), 47–73.

    Google Scholar 

  • Doorey, D. J. (2011). The transparent supply chain: From resistance to implementation at Nike and Levi-Strauss. Journal of Business Ethics, 103(4), 587–603.

    Google Scholar 

  • Emmelhainz, M. A., & Adams, R. J. (1999). The apparel industry response to “sweatshop” concerns: A review and analysis of codes of conduct. The Journal of Supply Chain Management Summer, 1999, 51–57.

    Google Scholar 

  • Etherington, L. D., & Richardson, A. J. (1994). Institutional Pressures on University Accounting Education in Canada. Contemporary Accounting Research Special Education Research, 10, 141–162.

    Google Scholar 

  • Fisher, T., Cooper, T., Woodward, S., Hiller, A., & Goworek, H. (2008). Public understanding of sustainable clothing: A report to the department for environment, food and rural affairs. Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (DEFRA), London.

  • Fitjar, R. D. (2011). Little big firms? Corporate social responsibility in small businesses that do not compete against big ones. Business Ethics: A European Review, 20(1), 30–44.

    Google Scholar 

  • Fletcher, K. (2008). Sustainable fashion and textiles: Design journeys. London: Earthscan.

    Google Scholar 

  • Freeman, R. E. (1984). Strategic management: A stakeholder approach. Boston, Massachusetts: Pitman.

  • Frenkel, S. J., & Scott, D. (2002). Compliance collaboration, and codes of labor practice: The Adidas Connection. California Management Review, 45(1), 29–49.

    Google Scholar 

  • Garcés-Ayerbe, C., Rivera-Torres, P., & Murillo-Luna, J. (2012). Stakeholder pressure and environmental proactivity: Moderating effect of competitive advantage expectations. Management Decision, 50(2), 189–206.

    Google Scholar 

  • Giesen, B. (2008). Ethical clothing—New awareness or fading fashion trend. Saarbrücken: VDM Verlag.

    Google Scholar 

  • Gjølberg, M. (2009a). Measuring the immeasurable? Constructing an index of CSR practices and CSR performance in 20 countries. Scandinavian Journal of Management, 25(1), 10–22.

    Google Scholar 

  • Gjølberg, M. (2009b). The origin of corporate social responsibility: global forces or national legacies? Socio-Economic Review, 7(4), 605–637.

    Google Scholar 

  • Gjølberg, M. (2010). Varieties of corporate social responsibility (CSR): CSR meets the “Nordic Model”. Regulation & Governance, 4(2), 203–229.

    Google Scholar 

  • Goodrick, E., & Salancik, G. R. (1996). Organizational discretion in responding to institutional practices: Hospitals and Cesarean births. Administrative Science Quarterly, 41(1), 1–28.

    Google Scholar 

  • Goodstein, G. D. (1994). Institutional pressures and strategic responsiveness: Employer involvement in work–family issues. Academy of Management Journal, 37(2), 350–382.

    Google Scholar 

  • Goworek, H. (2011). Social and environmental sustainability in the clothing industry: A case study of a fair trade retailer. Social Responsibility Journal, 7(1), 74–86.

    Google Scholar 

  • Graafland, J. J. (2002). Sourcing ethics in the textile sector: The case of C&A. Business Ethics: A European Review, 11(3), 282–294.

    Google Scholar 

  • Graafland, J., & van de Ven, B. (2006). Strategic and moral motivation for corporate social responsibility. Journal of Corporate Citizenship, 22(Summer), 111–123.

    Google Scholar 

  • Grayson, D., & Hodges, A. (2004). Corporate social opportunity! Seven steps to make corporate social responsibility work for your business. Sheffield: Greenleaf Publishing.

    Google Scholar 

  • Greening, D. W., & Gray, B. (1994). Testing a model of organizational response to social and political issues. Academy of Management Journal, 37(3), 467–498.

    Google Scholar 

  • Greenpeace, (2009). Slaugthering the Amazon. Amsterdam: Greenpeace.

    Google Scholar 

  • Greenpeace. (2011a). Dirty laundry. Amsterdam: Greenpeace.

    Google Scholar 

  • Greenpeace. (2011b). Dirty laundry 2: Hung out to dry. Amsterdam: Greenpeace.

    Google Scholar 

  • Greenwood, R., & Hinings, C. R. (1996). Understanding radical organizational change: Bringing together the old and the new institutionalism. Academy of Management Review, 21(4), 1022–1054.

    Google Scholar 

  • Greenwood, R., Raynard, M., Kodeih, F., Micelotta, E. R., & Lounsbury, M. (2011). Institutional complexity and organizational responses. Academy of Management Annals, 5(1), 317–371.

    Google Scholar 

  • Haanaes, K., Balagopal, B., Arthur, D., Kong, M. T., Velken, I., Kruschwitz, N., et al. (2011). First look: The second annual sustainability & innovation survey. MIT Sloan Management Review, 52(2), 77–83.

    Google Scholar 

  • Heikkurinen, P. (2010). Image differentiation with corporate environmental responsibility. Corporate Social Responsibility and Environmental Management, 17(3), 142–152.

    Google Scholar 

  • Henriques, I., & Sadorsky, P. (1999). The relationship between environmental commitment and managerial perceptions of stakeholder importance. Academy of Management Journal, 42(1), 87–99.

    Google Scholar 

  • Heugens, P. P. M. A. R., & Lander, M. W. (2009). Structure! agency! (and other quarrels): A meta-analysis of institutional theories of organization. Academy of Management Journal, 52(1), 61–85.

    Google Scholar 

  • Hoffman, A. J. (2001). Linking organizational and field-level analyses: The diffusion of corporate environmental practice. Organization & Environment, 14(2), 133–156.

    Google Scholar 

  • Hoivik, H. W., & Melé, D. (2009). Can an SME become a global corporate citizen? Evidence from a case study. Journal of Business Ethics, 88(3), 551–563.

    Google Scholar 

  • Husted, B. W., & Allen, D. B. (2006). Corporate social responsibility in the multinational enterprise: Strategic and institutional approaches. Journal of International Business Studies, 37(6), 838–849.

    Google Scholar 

  • Islam, M. A., & Deegan, C. (2010). Media pressures and corporate disclosure of social responsibility performance information: A Study of two global clothing and sports retail companies. Accounting and Business Research, 40(2), 131–148.

    Google Scholar 

  • Jackson, G., & Apostolakou, A. (2010). Corporate social responsibility in Western Europe: An institutional mirror or substitute? Journal of Business Ethics, 94, 371–394.

    Google Scholar 

  • Jackson, N., & Carter, P. (2000). Rethinking organisational behaviour. Harlow: Pearson Education Limited.

    Google Scholar 

  • Jermier, J. M., & Forbes, L. C. (2003). Greening organizations: Critical issues. In M. Alvesson & H. Willmott (Eds.), Studying management critically (pp. 157–176). London: Sage Publications Ltd.

    Google Scholar 

  • Jones, M. T. (1999). The institutional determinants of social responsibility. Journal of Business Ethics, 20(2), 163–179.

    Google Scholar 

  • Jones, B., Temperley, J., & Lima, A. (2009). Corporate reputation in the Era of Web 2.0. Journal of Marketing Management, 25(9–10), 927–939.

    Google Scholar 

  • Joyner, B. E., & Payne, D. (2002). Evolution and implementation: A study of values, business ethics and corporate social responsibility. Journal of Business Ethics, 41(4), 297–311.

    Google Scholar 

  • Kassinis, G., & Vafeas, N. (2006). Stakeholder pressures and environmental performance. Academy of Management Journal, 49(1), 145–159.

    Google Scholar 

  • Knight, G., & Greenberg, J. (2002). Promotionalism and subpolitics: Nike and its labor critics. Management Communication Quarterly, 15(4), 541–570.

    Google Scholar 

  • Kostova, T., & Roth, K. (2002). Adoption of an organizational practice by subsidiaries of multinational corporations: Institutional and relational effects. Academy of Management Journal, 45(1), 215–233.

    Google Scholar 

  • Kozlowski, A., Bardecki, M., & Searcy, C. (2012). Environmental impacts in the fashion industry: A life-cycle and stakeholder framework. Journal of Corporate Citizenship, 45, 17–36.

    Google Scholar 

  • KPMG. (2011). KPMG International Survey of Corporate Responsibility Reporting 2011. http://www.kpmg.com/Ca/en/IssuesAndInsights/ArticlesPublications/Documents/CSR%20Survey%202011.pdf.

  • Langhelle, O., Blindheim, B.-T., Laudal, T., Blomgren, A., & Fitjar, R. D. (2009). Conceptions of corporate social responsibility. Case: The clothing business. Stavanger: International Research Institute of Stavanger (IRIS). http://www.iris.no/internet/student.nsf/199f312efd2a0cacc125680e00635b85/535ba92284863db9c125768f004e4511/$FILE/IRIS%202009-247.pdf.

  • Laudal, T. (2010). An attempt to determine the CSR potential of the international clothing business. Journal of Business Ethics, 96, 63–77.

    Google Scholar 

  • Lawrence, A. T. (2010). Managing disputes with nonmarket stakeholders: Wage a fight, withdraw, wait, or work it out? California Management Review, 53(1), 90–113.

    Google Scholar 

  • Lee, M.-D. P. (2011). Configuration of external influences: The combined effects of institutions and stakeholders on corporate social responsibility strategies. Journal of Business Ethics, 102(2), 281–298.

    Google Scholar 

  • Lee, S.-Y., & Rhee, S.-K. (2005). From end-of-pipe technology towards pollution preventive approach: The evolution of corporate environmentalism in Korea. Journal of Cleaner Production, 13, 387–395.

    Google Scholar 

  • Lee, S. Y., & Rhee, S.-K. (2007). The change in corporate environmental strategies: A longitudinal empirical study. Management Decision, 45, 196–216.

    Google Scholar 

  • Li, S., Fetscherin, M., Alon, I., Latteman, C., & Yeh, K. (2010). Corporate social responsibility in emerging markets: The importance of the governance environment. Management International Review, 50(5), 635–654.

    Google Scholar 

  • Liang, H., Saraf, N., Hu, Q., & Xue, Y. (2007). Assimilation of enterprise systems: The effect of institutional pressures and the mediating role of top management. MIS Quarterly, 31(1), 59–87.

    Google Scholar 

  • Liu, H., Ke, W., Wei, K. K., Gu, J., & Chen, H. (2010). The role of institutional pressures on organizational culture in the firm’s intention to adopt Internet-enabled supply chain management systems. Journal of Operations Management, 28, 372–384.

    Google Scholar 

  • Livesey, S. M. (2001). Eco-identity as discursive struggle: Royal Dutch/Shell, Brent Spar, and Nigeria. Journal of Business Communication, 38(1), 58–91.

    Google Scholar 

  • Locke, R., & Romis, M. (2007). Improving work conditions in a global supply chain. MIT Sloan Management Review, 48(2), 54–62.

    Google Scholar 

  • Lozano, J. M., Albareda, L., Ysa, T., Roscher, H., & Marcuccio, M. (2008). Governments and corporate social responsibility: Public policies beyond regulation and voluntary compliance. Hampshire: Palgrave MacMillan.

    Google Scholar 

  • Matten, D., & Moon, J. (2008). “Implicit” and “Explicit” CSR: A conceptual framework for a comparative understanding of corporate social responsibility. Academy of Management Review, 33(2), 404–424.

    Google Scholar 

  • McAdam, T. W. (1973). How to put corporate responsibility into practice. Business & Society Review/Innovation Summer, 73(6), 8–20.

    Google Scholar 

  • McKinsey (2001). McKinsey global survey results: How companies manage sustainability. McKinsey & Company. https://www.mckinseyquarterly.com/PDFDownload.aspx?ar=2558. Accessed Jan 23

  • McMullen, A., & Maher, S. (2009). Let’s clean up fashion. Bristol: Labour Behind the Label.

    Google Scholar 

  • McWilliams, A., & Siegel, D. (2001). Corporate social responsibility: A theory of the firm perspective. Academy of Management Review, 26(1), 117–127.

    Google Scholar 

  • Menguc, B., Auh, S., & Ozanne, L. (2010). The interactive effect of internal and external factors on a proactive environmental strategy and its influence on a firm’s performance. Journal of Business Ethics, 94, 279–298.

    Google Scholar 

  • Midttun, A., Gautesen, K., & Gølberg, M. (2006). The political economy of CSR in Western Europe. Corporate Governance, 6(4), 369–385.

    Google Scholar 

  • Mirvis, P., & Googins, B. K. (2006). Stages of corporate citizenship: A developmental framework. Chestnut Hill: The Center for Corporate Citizenship at Boston College.

    Google Scholar 

  • Misani, N. (2010). The convergence of corporate social responsibility practices. Management Research Review, 33(7), 734–748.

    Google Scholar 

  • MISTRA. (2010). Mistra future fashion research program: Background paper. Stockholm: The Foundation for Strategic Environmental Research (MISTRA).

  • Murillo-Luna, J. L., Garcés-Ayerbe, C., & Rivera-Torres, P. (2008). Why do patterns of environmental response differ? A stakeholders’ pressure approach. Strategic Management Journal, 29, 1225–1240.

    Google Scholar 

  • Nidumolu, R., Prahalad, C. K., & Rangaswami, M. R. (2009). Why sustainability is now the key driver of innovation. Harvard Business Review, 87(9), 56–64.

    Google Scholar 

  • Noci, G., & Verganti, R. (1999). Managing ‘green’ product innovation in small firms. R&D Management, 29(1), 3–15.

    Google Scholar 

  • Nordic Fashion Association. (2009). This is NICE: NICE 10-year plan of action. Copenhagen: Nordic Fashion Association.

  • O’Higgins, E. R. E. (2010). Corporations, civil society, and stakeholders: An organizational conceptualization. Journal of Business Ethics, 94, 157–176.

    Google Scholar 

  • Oliver, C. (1991). Strategic responses to institutional processes. Academy of Management Review, 16(1), 145–179.

    Google Scholar 

  • Owen, D. L., Swift, T., & Hunt, K. (2001). Questioning the role of stakeholder engagement in social and ethical accounting, auditing and reporting. Accounting Forum, 25(3), 264–282.

    Google Scholar 

  • Pache, A.-C., & Santos, F. (2010). When worlds collide: The internal dynamics of organizational responses to conflicting institutional demands. Academy of Management Review, 35(3), 455–476.

    Google Scholar 

  • Park, H., & Lennon, S. J. (2006). The organizational factors influencing socially responsible apparel buying/sourcing. Clothing & Textiles Research Journal, 24(3), 229–247.

    Google Scholar 

  • Park, H., & Stoel, L. (2005). A model of socially responsible buying/sourcing decision-making processes. International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management, 33(4), 235–248.

    Google Scholar 

  • Pedersen, E. R. (2010). Modelling CSR: How managers understand the responsibilities of business towards society. Journal of Business Ethics, 91(2), 155–166.

    Google Scholar 

  • Pedersen, E. R. G. (2011). All animals are equal, but …: Management perceptions of stakeholder relationships and societal responsibilities in multinational corporations. Business Ethics: A European Review, 20(2), 177–191.

    Google Scholar 

  • Perez-Aleman, P., & Sandilands, M. (2008). Building value at the top and the bottom of the global value chain. California Management Review, 51(1), 24–49.

    Google Scholar 

  • Porter, M. E., & Kramer, M. R. (2006). Strategy and society: The link between competitive advantage and corporate social responsibility. Harvard Business Review, 84(12), 78–92.

    Google Scholar 

  • Preuss, L. (2011). Innovative CSR: A framework for anchoring corporate social responsibility in the innovation literature. Journal of Corporate Citizenship, 42(Summer), 17–33.

    Google Scholar 

  • Quazi, A. M. (2003). Identifying the determinants of corporate managers’ perceived social obligations. Management Decision, 41(9), 822–831.

    Google Scholar 

  • Räsänen, K., Meriläinen, S., & lovio, R. (1994). Pioneering descriptions of corporate greening: Notes and doubts on the emerging discussion. Business Strategy and the Environment, 3(4), 9–16.

    Google Scholar 

  • Riddselius, C., & Maher, S. (2010). Killer Jeans. Fair Trade Center/Labour Behind the Label.

  • Schaefer, A. (2007). Contrasting institutional and performance accounts of environmental management systems: Three case studies in the UK Water & Severage Industry. Journal of Management Studies, 44(4), 506–535.

    Google Scholar 

  • Scott, W. R. (2010). Reflections: The past and future of research on institutions and institutional change. Journal of Change Management, 10(1), 5–21.

    Google Scholar 

  • Sethi, S. P. (2003). Setting global standards: Guidelines for creating codes of conduct in multinational corporations. Hoboken: Wiley.

    Google Scholar 

  • Sharma, S., & Vredenburg, H. (1998). Proactive corporate environmental strategy and the development of competitively valuable organizational capabilities. Strategic Management Journal, 19, 729–753.

    Google Scholar 

  • SHRM. (2007). 2007 Corporate social responsibility: United States, Australia, India, China, Canada, Mexico and Brazil. Alexandria, VA: Society for Human Resource Management (SHRM) Research Department.

  • Smith, N. C. (2003). Corporate social responsibility: Whether or how? California Management Review, 45(4), 52–76.

    Google Scholar 

  • Spar, D. L., & La Mure, L. T. (2003). The power of activism: Assessing the impact of NGOs on global business. California Management Review, 45(3), 78–101.

    Google Scholar 

  • Spence, L., & Bourlakis, M. (2009). The evolution from corporate social responsibility to supply chain responsibility: The case of Waitrose. Supply Chain Management: An International Journal, 14(4), 291–302.

    Google Scholar 

  • Spence, L. J., Coles, A.-M., & Harris, L. (2001). The forgotten stakeholder? Ethics and social responsibility in relation to competitors. Business and Society Review, 106(4), 331–352.

    Google Scholar 

  • Steurer, R. (2010). The role of governments in corporate social responsibility: Characterising public policies on CSR in Europe. Policy Sciences, 43(1), 49–72.

    Google Scholar 

  • Swartz, J. (2010). Timberland’s CEO on standing up to 65,000 angry activists. Harvard Business Review, 88(9), 39–127.

    Google Scholar 

  • Tan, J., & Wang, L. (2011). MNC strategic responses to ethical pressure: An institutional logic perspective. Journal of Business Ethics, 98, 373–390.

    Google Scholar 

  • Teo, H. H., Wei, K. K., & Benbasat, I. (2003). Predicting intention to adopt interorganizational linkages: An institutional perspective. MIS Quarterly, 27(1), 19–49.

    Google Scholar 

  • van Marrewijk, M. (2003). Concepts and definitions of CSR and corporate sustainability: Between agency and communion. Journal of Business Ethics, 44(2–3), 95–105.

    Google Scholar 

  • van Tulder, R., van Wijk, J., & Kolk, A. (2009). From chain liability to chain responsibility. Journal of Business Ethics, 85(Suppl 2), 399–412.

    Google Scholar 

  • Waddock, S. (2008). Building a new institutional infrastructure for corporate responsibility. Academy of Management Perspectives, 22(3), 87–108.

    Google Scholar 

  • Weaver, G. R., Treviño, L. K., & Cochran, P. L. (1999). Integrated and decoupled corporate social performance: Management commitments, external pressures, and corporate ethics practices. Academy of Management Journal, 42(5), 539–552.

    Google Scholar 

  • Wheeler, D., Colbert, B., & Freeman, R. E. (2003). Focusing on value: Reconciling corporate social responsibility, sustainability and a stakeholder approach in a network world. Journal of General Management, 28(3), 1–27.

    Google Scholar 

  • Wright, C. M., Smith, M. E., & Wright, B. G. (2007). Hidden costs associated with stakeholders in supply management. Academy of Management Perspectives, 21(3), 64–82.

    Google Scholar 

  • Yu, X. (2008). Impacts of corporate code of conduct on labour standards: A case study of Reebok’s athletic footwear supplier factory in China. Journal of Business Ethics, 81, 513–529.

    Google Scholar 

Download references

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

Authors

Corresponding author

Correspondence to Esben Rahbek Gjerdrum Pedersen.

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

About this article

Cite this article

Pedersen, E.R.G., Gwozdz, W. From Resistance to Opportunity-Seeking: Strategic Responses to Institutional Pressures for Corporate Social Responsibility in the Nordic Fashion Industry. J Bus Ethics 119, 245–264 (2014). https://doi.org/10.1007/s10551-013-1630-5

Download citation

  • Received:

  • Accepted:

  • Published:

  • Issue Date:

  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s10551-013-1630-5

Keywords

Navigation